Diagonal Street (Johannesburg, Gauteng): On one side of the street, sangomas (healers) enter a pungent muti (folk medicine) shop to purchase jars of crushed baboon skull, lizards' feet, and crocodile fat, while on the other, accountants flashing cellphones exit the glass walls of "Diamond House," the gleaming high-rise designed by Chicago architect Helmut Jahn. It is this kind of contrast that can make visiting Johannesburg such an electrifying experience.

The Hector Pieterson Memorial (Soweto, Gauteng): When schoolchildren took to the streets on June 16, 1976, in a peaceful protest against the decision to use Afrikaans as the sole means of instruction in schools, police opened fire, killing, among others, young Hector Pieterson. This was a turning point in the battle against apartheid. Widespread riots and international condemnation followed, and nothing would ever be the same. The best way to see it is with a township tour.

Cradle of Humankind (Gauteng): Having shot to fame in 1947 with the discovery of a 2 1/2-million-year-old hominid skull, the region continues to produce fascinating finds about the origins of mankind. Tours with paleontologists introduce you to many intriguing aspects of human evolution, in an area that has remained unchanged for millions of years.

Voortrekker Monument (Pretoria, Gauteng): This massive granite structure commemorates the Great Trek, in particular the Battle of Blood River (fought between Trekkers and Zulus on December 16, 1838), and remains hallowed ground for Afrikaner nationalists.

Robben Island (Cape Town): A prison for political activists since the 17th century, including its most famous prisoner, Nelson Mandela, the island was commonly known as the "Alcatraz of Africa." Today the island is a museum and a nature reserve, and a tangible symbol of South Africa's transformation.

Bo-Kaap (Cape Town): This Cape Malay area, replete with cobbled streets and quaint historical homes, was one of the few "nonwhite" areas to escape destruction during the apartheid era, despite its proximity to the city. A walk or drive through the streets should be combined with a visit to the District Six Museum (tel. 021/424-3846), which commemorates a less fortunate community. Visible today only as cleared land on the southern outskirts of town (opposite the Bo-Kaap), this once vibrant suburb was razed to the ground in the 1960s.

Wuppertal Moravian Mission Station (Cederberg, Western Cape): Located at the end of a long, dusty road in the Cederberg Mountains, Wuppertal remains unchanged to this day, and is both architecturally and culturally a living legacy of the early missionaries. Other mission stations worth visiting are Elim and Genandendal, both in the Overberg.

The Nelson Mandela Museum (Umtata, Eastern Cape): A wonderful tribute to Africa's greatest statesman with posters, photographs, and videos documenting his life and work. Among the interesting memorabilia are the many gifts from respectful statesmen, adoring children, boxers, and other admirers.

Rorke's Drift and Isandlwana (Battlefields, KwaZulu-Natal): These two Anglo-Zulu War battlefield sites, within walking distance of each other, encompass both the British Empire's most humiliating defeat, and its most heroic victory in the colonies. At the Battle of Isandlwana, more than 1,300 armed men were wiped out by a "bunch of savages armed with sticks," as the mighty Zulu nation was then referred to. Hours later, 139 British soldiers (of which 35 were ill) warded off a force of 4,000 Zulus for 12 hours, for which an unprecedented 11 Victorian Crosses were awarded.

Kwa Muhle Museum (Durban, KwaZulu-Natal): Excellent user-friendly displays explain how the "Durban System" not only exploited the indigenous peoples but made them pay for its administration. It's a good introduction to the discriminatory laws that preceded apartheid.

The Vukani Collection Museum (Eshowe, KwaZulu-Natal): While most Westerners head for the cultural villages to gain some insight into Zulu tribal customs and culture, Vukani is where Zulu parents take their children. With the largest collection of Zulu artifacts in the world, and an informative curator/guide, this is a highly recommended excursion, particularly for those interested in crafts. Note that if you aren't venturing this far afield, the Campbell Collections in Durban is an alternative.

Victoria "Street" Market (Durban, KwaZulu-Natal): The most culturally diverse city in southern Africa is Durban, and the best place to see this diversity is in the streets surrounding the Victoria "Street" Market. The number of shops selling anything from saris to spices is not surprising (Durban has the greatest Indian population outside of India); but woven into this dense and fragrant fabric are Zulu sangomas (healers) selling traditional medicines (muti) made of barks and animal parts, and street hawkers pawning everything from fresh fruit to haircuts.